What is cut, polish and wax?

The Gold Coast climate (Australian climate in general) is extremely harsh on your car's paintwork. On top of normal weathering (UV rays and humidity), bird and bat droppings, tree sap, accumulated dirt, oils, exhaust and other contaminants attack your car's surface on a daily basis, leaving it dull and oxidized in a short period of time.

Professional polishing and waxing on a regular basis will keep your car's finish always clean, protected and looking good, even after 10 or 15 years. The polishing process can also remove fine scratches and avoid the onset of corrosion.

On this page we will explain the step-by-step procedure of what is generally known as cut and polish, paint rejuvenation, paint restoration, paint correction or waxing. A full job on a weathered paintwork would include - degreaser wash, paint decontamination, clay barring, compounding, polishing and protecting the finish. Some extreme cases may require wet sanding prior to compounding.

Above: Farther side of the panel has been machine cut and polished to eliminate severe swirl marks and holograms, clearly visible on the lower (right) side of the bonnet.

A full cut and polish job (3 stages or more) is one of the hardest, if not the hardest work one can do in the auto reconditioning industry. It requires technique, patience, care, and a good eye for detail.

These are the stages of a full cut, polish and wax sealant work:

1 - Paint Preparation

Foreign particles or substances in the paint film such as red iron oxide from metal brake dust, asphalt, tar, concrete residues, overspray, tree sap, bug squash, bird droppings, red dust, industrial fallout (pollution) and other contaminants must be removed from the car paint work before the full cut and polish process starts. This should be done periodically as some of these contaminants, if  left untreated for a long period of time, will start to cause tiny rust spots on your car's finish. This is especially noticeable in a tropical coastal region such as the Gold Coast.

These contaminants cannot be removed by normal car washes. However, this can be treated with an "acid bath", solvents and a high quality detail clay bar. We suggest clay treatment every six months to maintain your car's value and lustre. This must be step one for every professional polishing job. If concrete residues, paint overspray, tar and other contaminants are still left on the paint after claying, the use of acids or solvents may be required for complete cleaning.

A good quality clay bar costs around AU$60 and can be safely used only a few times. Heavily contaminated clay bars can cause scratches. Clay bars should be replaced after a few uses.

2 - Compounding

Compounding is the second step of a full paint restoration job. Compounds are abrasive substances that will revitalize old, dull, worn out paint.

If professionally applied (with a rotary polisher), compounds may remove 1000-1500 grit sanding scratches, random light scratches, oxidation spots and some types of overspray, leaving the paint ready for polishing. More than one 'machine pass' (4 to 10 single passes) might be required for better correction/ restoration. This is a process that requires a good technique, patience and time.

Compounds cannot remove scratches that have cut too deep through the paintwork. A good way to find out if a scratch is too deep is scrapping your fingernails across the scratch. If the scratch "catches" your fingernails, it may be too deep to be repaired through compounding and it may need re-spraying or a paint touch up. Deep scratch touch ups are cheap alternatives to expensive panel re-spraying jobs.

Heavy compounds will produce more superior and safe results if applied with a rotary polisher at 1,200 - 1,800 RPM or a good D.A. polisher at 5,000 - 6,000 OPM (or buff at the recommended product speed). Compounds must be professionally applied as there's a risk of cutting through the clear coat damaging the paintwork. Compounding will level the paint by smoothing the surface, removing "dead" oxidized paint. This process removes the upper most layer of damaged clear coat by actually stripping or cutting the car's faded paintwork, exposing a "new" revitalized surface, ready for the polish stage. A car should be compounded only a few times. There's a limit to how much of the paintwork can be cut.

There are different grades of compounds and a professional detailer should know which product to apply depending on paint conditions, trying to avoid the use of overly aggressive compounds when a lighter product could be applied to achieve optimal results.

3 - Polishing

There are several grades of polishes. Polishes have a cutting ability but are smoother than compounds. Newer cars with paint work in good condition will not need the use of aggressive compounds unless there's a damaged area to be treated. Also polishing only may not be enough to remove heavy buffing holograms (sometimes from the factory/ dealership/ panel shop). These holograms may be only visible when the synthetic filler wax applied by the dealer or spray painter wears off, after a few washes.

A polish can be applied directly to the paint work after paint preparation (degreaser wash and claying). Polishes can be applied by hand however the best results will be achieved using an orbital buffer.

The previous compounding process may leave compounding swirls and holograms and some polishes work as swirl removers. Whether you are applying a polish after compounding or not, polishing will bring gloss to the paint's surface. Polishing is the clarifying, cleaning, exfoliating step that prepares the car paintwork for final protection. More than one machine 'section pass' (4 to 10 single passes) might be required for a better finish.

Some polishes are mixed with waxes and fillers in an effort to be an all-in-one product. Again it will depend on the paintwork condition; all-in-one polishes might have a limited outcome in many cases but may work well on newer cars with well maintained paintwork (one stage machine polishing). Other products are known as swirl removers, spiderweb removers or glazes, but most could be considered as different types of polishes. It is up to the professional to find the best product, polisher and buffing pad for each job.

At this point, after polishing, it is strongly recommended that a wax, sealant or coating system is used to protect the paintwork.

Above: After claying, compounding and polishing (left side), swirl marks, oxidation spots and light scratches were removed. Leaving that side ready for application of wax or paint protection.

4 - Waxing

High quality car wax is made from a Brazilian palm tree known as Carnauba. Liquid and especially solid waxes will create the ultimate deep wet gloss.

It is well known in the auto detailing world that there is nothing like the rich, warm glow created by carnauba wax. Men is still not able to chemically reproduce the same results. Carnauba wax transforms the look of your paintwork into a deep, liquid pool that shimmers under changing light conditions.

Waxing seals the polishing job and it is also a form of paint protection. It repels water and most contaminants. It also protects your car from UV rays, heat, moisture, oxidation, and other contamination while making your car look stunning!

Carnauba wax will last between 6 to 9 weeks depending on the climate and whether your car is kept undercover. Hot, humid climates like the one found on the Gold Coast, result in the life span of carnauba wax being shorter.

Synthetic Sealants and Coating Systems - A modern option to Carnauba Wax

For the Gold Coast climate (Australian climate in general) we strongly recommend the application of a synthetic sealant or a coating system after polishing. Synthetic paint sealants are cheaper and depending on the product, washing method, whether your car is kept undercover, etc, it will protect your car from three months to up to one year. However the most advanced paint protection option is known as 'Permanent Coating System'. You can read more about it at Paint Protection.

Paint Restoration Services by Fab's Car Polishing Gold Coast

Paint Restoration - Full Compound + Polish + Carnauba Wax or Sealant (deep gloss and protection)

from $300

The three-stage machine polishing is also known as light scratch removal, paint correction or paint rejuvenation. This service will “bring life back” to oxidized, dull paintwork. Depending on how damaged the paintwork is (severe oxidation, heavy rubbing and swirl marks, deep holograms) a four-stage machine polish (four section passes) may be required for best results.

The full cut-compound & polish + wax (paint restoration) service includes:

• High pressure, scratch free auto degreaser wash
• Microfiber towel dry
• Wheels cleaned and polished
• Outside windows cleaned
• Clay bar paint decontamination
• Machine Paint correction – Professional full compound, swirl remover & polish
• Real Carnauba wax application (deep gloss and protection)

Gold Coast Clients Summer Special

Paint Restoration - from $300!

Click here to see our Prices and Services page

Website written and designed by Fabiano Salsa.